Circuit boards with lights in epoxy in a table

Circuit boards with lights in epoxy in a table


Circuit board table in 10 steps Step 1 The Idea. putting boards like these in epoxy in a table ..but.. .. what table? at last I found this table online the modern steel legs will go well with the boards Step 2 Preparation. the wood of the old table was discolored and the steel was dirty so with paint stripper I removed old layers of varnish (I used a scrape card for that) and I cleaned the steel the backs of the boards had to be really flat first I tried to remove components with a soldering iron but the fastest way was with pliers Step 3 Making room. mmm.. how would I be putting the boards in? I mean, in what shape? I chose the simple strip shape I cut that shape to depth with the saw .. to about 25 mm I took out a 25 x 4 grid with the router the remaining blocks, I chiseled out big pieces with the grain of the wood the rest sideways and after cleaning it was ready for.. Step 4 Putting the boards in. I didn’t want to see any wood in the small spaces next to the boards so I put in this aluminium tape then it was just a puzzle here and there I had to .. .. force a board down with a screw because the middle name of my workshop .. .. is ‘dust’ .. I figured I had to make a tent before pouring epoxy Step 5 Making a tent. nothing fancy, just two tent-shaped ends connected by wood on the sides strips .. .. covered with garbage bags some boards were still loose for the following step they needed to be fixed so this was the first pour with epoxy last chance to position the boards Step 7 Putting in the LEDs (that are no longer LEDs 🙂 I wanted lights to light up but without electricity .. no cables or batteries .. nah .. so I thought of fiber optic cable and I took a normal LED drilled a hole in the bottom broke off the wires .. and stuck a fiber cable in then I drilled holes in the boards and stuck the (glued) fibers in this block with a hole .. is the focal point for the fiber cables I pulled the fibers through .. .. glued them in .. .. and cut them off funny: you can see the colors of the LEDs just to make sure .. I poured in the LEDs so far, so good .. on to .. Step 8 The Big Pour. witness .. the pouring of .. 7 liters epoxy the epoxy revealed .. the table is bent in the middle so I had to pour extra at the sides Step 9 Sanding don’t ask me why .. .. but I recorded all of the sanding so now I know .. .. it took me a total of 2.5 hours with 60, 100, 180 and 320 grit Step 10 Finish the original plan was .. .. to sand and polish the epoxy instead I decided to pour an extra layer I’ll explain later why I sanded the wood one last time and gave it some coats of Danish Oil>The End Result Epilogue So? Success or Fail? well, opposite of what you might think after watching this video the table was a fail What? Why? Somewhere in the process, and I’m not exactly sure where, the epoxy got not mixed well enough. That resulted in sticky soft spots and very ugly spots wait, let me show you Couldn’t it be repaired? that’s why I tried to put another layer over it all – what you just saw in the ‘finish’-part of the video but that didn’t help at all there were so many soft spots at the sides, that the sticky epoxy kept crawling up and out so not only were there ugly spots IN the epoxy, the table being permanently sticky, made it as good as useless Bummer! Yeah, I was quite upset by this, because 95 percent of the epoxy is fine and it is very nice to look at the many details of the circuit boards and to play with the lights What now? well, I guess I have to take my loss and see it as a learning thing What will you do with the table? I’m not sure yet. I’ll keep it for now and think about it. really getting it right would mean to make an extra groove at the sides, between the wood and the epoxy, with a router or a saw and chisel the failed epoxy out that would be a lot of work, so .. I guess I’ll sleep on it for a while Although the table might not be a complete success, just maybe you learned something of the video, or maybe you found the video entertaining. If you liked the video (not the table) please like the video and subscribe to the channel. See you in our next video!

Woodcraft 101 with Eric Gorges: Relief Carving

Woodcraft 101 with Eric Gorges: Relief Carving


I started carving wood a couple months ago and I’ve really enjoyed it. I think I’m drawn to the simplicity of it. There’s not a lot of power tools involved it’s just some knives and patience. You know, you can lose yourself in your work which I really enjoy that. Something I’ve been looking at lately is a type of carving called relief
carving and that’s where you go in and you remove material from
the wood to reveal an image and that looks pretty challenging to me. It’s something I’d like to do I’ve never tried it before and I think I’m ready for that step. So I’m gonna head down to Woodcraft and talk to them about the best kind of
material to use and pick up a couple new gouges. How are you doing? I’m Eric. I’m Joe. Nice to meet you. So I’ve been doing some carving lately Okay Mostly crosses. Okay, but I’m ready to get into something a little bit bigger and I’m thinking more of a relief
type carving. So I grabbed a piece of bass wood here I’m thinking about ripping this down and then using these two pieces here to make my cross. Alright. Okay, and then to carve it on this face here. So what would you recommend that I
use to do that? Well once you decide what you’re gonna carve on there you’re gonna draw your pattern on. Yep. You’re gonna use a V-tool similar to this to outline it. Okay. The V-tool, you can outline and it is a V so you don’t have a sharp corner on the remaining material. Alright. Then in the bottom of the V-cut you would use your knife to make a stop cut
and then use a flatter gouge to remove the material to the stop cut. And that’s what you would use your gouges to cut back to to remove the material. Come in from it. So we’re gonna use the V around my border Uh-huh. A knife in the center of the V to create a stop cut Correct. And then I’m gonna take a gouge and remove the material up to that point. Yes. Right? And then which gouges would you
recommend? This is a number three 12 millimeter. Nice. Three indicates the curvature of the tool Oh, okay. and 12 is obviously the width. Nice. That feels nice. It’s a very nice tool, yes. It’s got like a nice weight to it. It fits in the palm nice and comfortable. Yeah it sure does. Like it’s made for it. Alright so number three. What else would you recommend? Once you get the majority of the stock removed you’re gonna want to start adding detail. Okay. So you just use something with
more of a curve in it. We have the number nine. This is a number nine it has a lot of
curve almost like a half circle. Oh wow, okay. That would create little valleys. Yep. Maybe if you were maybe putting a grapevine in there or
something you could actually stab in and create a circle. Oh yeah. And then cut back to it to create a little ball. Oh, okay, alright. You could make a grape or something. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay, excellent. Alright man. Yeah that would probably cover just about, you know, what you’re gonna do and I’m sure as you
progress in your carvings you’re gonna want more and more more. Oh yeah. It’s just different shapes. Yeah, yeah, yeah. And that should offset the knives that I already have. Yes. Perfect. I think they should complement them very well. Alright. Alright. Thank you. So the first thing I did was take my
block and rip it in half. Then I marked a couple center lines and I cut my joints in and we’re gonna glue it up. Once it’s dry we’ll be ready to carve it. Alright. I got it worked out in my head
and a little bit of drawing on here and I’m gonna start with the border. I’m happy with where I’m at. You know I envisioned this Tree of Life type image and I’ve got the bottom done I’m happy with it. This is all bound to finish dimension
and I’ve got some texture in here for the bark and whatnot and I’ve got, you
know, different heights to give it some character and dimension. It’s been fun. I think I’m ready for paint. I’m super happy with how it came out. I mean the first relief carving I’ve
done and I enjoyed it. It was a ton of fun. I learned a lot, too. The corners,
they were a little bit harder than I anticipated and along the way, you know, I
started doing a little back cutting in here and I really liked how that looked
but I couldn’t be happier with the piece. I think it looks really good
I’m super happy with it. I did use a little dough in here to fill up some of
these joints but it looks great. I’m gonna whitewash the whole thing first
and get a little bit of white on it background and the tree and then I’m
just gonna start throwing color on it. Maybe some bronzes and coppers and
definitely some golds and some black for the background I think and we’ll go from there. You know, see how it looks.
Just keep layering colors down. I couldn’t be happier with how this came
out, I mean, I really enjoyed the process. It was challenging, you know, these
little areas in here were really hard and trying to get the texture right so
that it actually looks like bark. But it was a lot of fun. I enjoyed the entire
process and eventually doing this little back cut on there, man, that just, that
brought it to life, you know, that just really made it stand out from the
background. One of the things that’s super special about this for me is the
fact that it’s not often that I get to make something and then keep it at the
end of the day, so it’s gonna be special for me to hang this up on the wall and
enjoy it and the cool thing is I know eventually, you know, my daughter will put
it up at her house. She’ll be able to tell people that, you know, her dad made
it and I think that’s pretty cool.

2019 Shop Tour – Layout, Tools, Organization, Tech, and Safety

2019 Shop Tour – Layout, Tools, Organization, Tech, and Safety


– The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Powermatic, Titebond, and today’s special sponsor, SimpliSafe. Welcome to my wood shop. It’s a four car garage
in Denver, Colorado. I’ve been here for about three years now, and while this shop is about half the size of the one I had in Arizona, I really couldn’t be happier. In this tour we’ll talk
about layout, tools, storage solutions, security,
courtesy of SimpliSafe, additional tech, and my favorite
safety related features. I’ve done a lot of upgrades in the three years that I’ve been here, but the most significant
change came this year when I hired this guy. My brother-in-law, Jason. So let’s start by talking about layout. So people always say that the table saw is the heart of the shop, and that still holds true for me. I’ve got the table saw almost dead center. And everything kind of happens around it. Layout in a shop is really important. So we have set up so that near the door we have our storage. That’s where material comes
in, goes against that wall, and then we could easily take
that over to the chop saw. Having the chop saw near the
door is really important too. Once we break the material down, then we’re gonna take
it over to the jointer, process it from there through the planer, possibly the drum sander, and then roundabout to the table saw to finish for the final operation. Over here, of course,
I’ve got my workbench. It is just a little bit
offset from the wall so I could work on all sides. And I really think it’s
important, if possible, to have windows near your workbench. Natural lighting is a great thing for visibility and just being
able to see what you’re doing. So I’ve got a nice decent
sized window over here, as well as one just behind this side. Now if you have a location that’s literally right in front
of a window, that’s great. I just don’t have the
option to do that here. And behind the workbench, strategically located where I
can easily access everything, you can see all of my hand tools. Now over here I’ve got my
Festool multifunction table. The primary use for this for me is breaking down sheet goods. If I need to make nice
square cuts on sheet goods, this is how I do it. But layout isn’t always
perfect, unfortunately. Over there, all the way by the front door, is where we lay down foam sheets, and that’s how I do my initial
processing of sheet goods. We cut it down, then I bring it back over here. When it comes to layout
in most of our shops, we can’t master design these things, so we just do the best with what we have. Another important thing that I considered was a layout of dust collection, and that relates to where
your tools are positioned. If you’ve got big power tools
scattered all over the place, and you want to do ducting, it’s gonna be really difficult to get that stuff to those tools. So I have a wall basically
of a bunch of tools that require dust collection. Makes it easy for the main line to come across and have
dropped where they’re needed. And then in the center of the shop, I have two other drops for other big power tools. But I don’t really have anything
collecting on the far wall, just for simplicity sake. It makes the dust
collection more effective. Even though this is a four car garage, two of my doors are completely disabled, insulated, and boxed in. I have one functional door. So it still does operate as a garage, although we never really park in here. This area over here is a multiuse space. Everything is mobile. If there’s an emergency,
like a hail storm, and I have to bring a vehicle
in here, I can do that. This also helps me move
things out of the way so that we can cut that
plywood on the floor. Now just a little bit more about these covers for the doors. I can’t recommend this from
a professional standpoint. This is just something
that made sense to me. It makes a big difference
in the efficiency, the cooling and the heating of the space, and just keeping it cool. I don’t currently have an air conditioner. Someday I might add one. I do have heat and it’s important to keep that heat in here. So this is basically just a
framed out wall with sides. I’ve insulated it. It is only temporarily installed. If I ever have to sell this place, these are gonna come right out. It should probably take me
10 minutes to take them down. So now let’s talk about the tools that make up the shop. I’ve got a Powermatic PM2000. It’s a three horsepower model here. Nice big table to work with. I’ve got a VerySuperCool Tools fence, which utilizes a nice
extruded aluminum fence. A really good system for adapting things, using tall fences, hold
downs, stuff like that. I have a guard, I get a lot
of questions about this here. This is an HTC Brett Guard. Unfortunately, they
don’t make ’em anymore. So if you wanna call HTC and
petition them to make one this is really one of the
best guards on the market. Got a little bit of dust collection. It doesn’t really do very much, but it’s one of those Festool
bluetooth controllers, which is pretty sweet. The other thing about
this that I really like is you loosen this guy up here and then you could rotate
that out of the way if you need to make through cuts. On the bar here, I thought
this was a great place to put one of those magnetic strips. A lot of the add-ons and
things that I use here require special tools. I’ve got my little angle
meter, dust collection remotes, and a tiny hammer, because
everyone needs one. But this is a great place to
have some tools at the ready, specific to the tool that they’re on. Under the extension
wing I do have a cabinet just for table saw accessories, everything I need at the table saw. This is one of the upgrades
I really need to make sometime soon is to have
a really nice cabinet with drawers and good storage down here. But this does the trick for now. Over on this wall I’ve got my band saws. I’ve got a 14 inch and a PM1500, that’s a 15 inch saw. I like having two band
saws, it’s a good luxury, because I have one with a really
tiny blade for curved cuts and then over on this guy is basically where I
do all of my resawing. And the other day we
had this saw blade break and it was great to have a backup, because we didn’t have to stop working and we could fix that thing
up when the time came. Obviously I’m a big fan of Powermatic, they’ve been a sponsor of ours for years, so you’re gonna see a lot
of Powermatic in this shop. Next up I’ve got my grinder. It’s on a mobile cart, so I can move it around
and do sharpening here. All my sharpening gear
is on the shelves below. I primarily use Shapton ceramic stones. I find them to be really reliable, they last a long time, and
you don’t have to presoak them like other water stones. I’ve got them in about
four different grits. A little further over,
one of my favorite tools is the oscillating spindle sander. I do a lot of curves in my work, so when you’re fairing curves, circles, anything that’s not flat and straight the spindle sander is a
fantastic tool for that. This is my combination
disk sander, belt sander. I don’t use this as often. The most used portion of this is definitely the disk side of it, but when you need it it’s there. Believe it or not, I do
actually own a lathe. I only use it like once
a year unfortunately, but it’s been great. Because when Ashley Hartwood comes to town she can turn some great
things on this amazing lathe. Seriously though, I
don’t really turn bowls and things like that. If I have to turn it’s
typically a furniture part or an accessory that goes
with the piece of furniture. So it’s nice to have
a good, powerful lathe to be able to get that job done. I really love my router table. INCRA makes a good product and it’s one of their bigger tables with their adjustable positioner fence. This thing is fantastic. One of the most amazing parts of this is the dust collection. They have a box that
goes under the router, it encases the router and allows you to hook up full scale dust collection, which then collects from
the plate on the top, as well as the fence. Now for our setup here,
because this is mobile, I can’t have this hooked up all the time, but I do have some magnetic
quick connects over here and I’m able to take
this one on the planer and just borrow that for dust collection here at the router table. Over here I’ve got my
Powermatic 12 inch jointer. I started out with a
six inch jointer, used, it was a benchtop model. That worked fine for a while, but then I upgraded to a
bigger six inch Powermatic with the really long beds. Then eventually I upgraded to eight inch and now I’m at the point where I just, I get so many wide boards that I’d rather not cut
down into smaller sizes, so we went for the 12 inch. This thing is an absolute beast. Helical cutter head, so much room to work. And yeah, it’s expensive, but when you do this every day and you’re trying to crank
out content and projects having a 12 inch jointer is
a really, really nice treat. Now the last two big
power tools are the planer and the drum sander. So I have these clustered together, because they kind of do
the same thing in a way in terms of how you process
material through them. As a two-man shop we
can get pretty efficient as we send the material
through, Jay pops it up on top, then I can make an adjustment, send it back through again. And same thing with the drum sander. Drum sanders aren’t
absolutely a necessity, but they really are nice to have. They save you a lot of time
in processing the material after it’s been milled. You’d save on sanding and you actually get surfaces that tend to be a little bit cleaner than the machine marks you
might get from planers. Though this has a helical head in it, so it’s pretty darn clean to begin with. But if you can afford it
and you’ve got the space drum sanders are pretty nice to have. When it comes to portable power tools I’ve kind of got a mix of things. I’ve got some Festool over here, I’ve got a couple Ryobi,
there’s a Milwaukee tool, whatever happens to be on sale. When it comes to battery powered tools I tend to favor Milwaukee. I just think it’s a strong brand and ultimately I don’t want a bunch of different battery brands around. Let me go show you my charging station. Even though this is just my drills, I’ve got tons of tools that actually rely on these batteries. So I have two chargers ready to go and all of these batteries can be used on all of those tools. I don’t have any other
brand batteries in the shop. And for a drill press I’ve
got a nice Powermatic model, it’s got a variable speed, you’ve got some nice little
features like lights, laser crosshairs and stuff, which actually I forgot that
those were even on there. We should probably use
those once in a while. But it’s a really nice model. Over the past year or so
I’ve been kind of conducting a little experiment with myself here. I have an INCRA 5000 sled. Even though I’m a big proponent of building your own crosscut sled, it’s one of the easiest,
simplest things that you could do that can make a really big
difference in your shop, I wanted to see what a
manufactured premade sled could do. And over the last year
I have fallen in love with this thing. Its ability to hit angles
and then go back to 90 absolutely dependably,
to hold its settings. I always had to readjust my
crosscut sleds over time. It’s really a great crosscut sled. So much so that I don’t
have my old sleds anymore. I use this exclusively
as my crosscut sled now. Now here’s another tool I
get a lot of questions about, because I seem quite indecisive when it comes to miter saws. I’ve had a Festool Kapex and then went to a Bosch Glide, sold that, and now I have really
one of the simplest saws you can get out there,
it’s not even a slider, it’s just a simple compound miter saw. The reason I have this is because I have a lot of other tools, especially with that
INCRA table saw set up, I have a lot of ways to cut various angles and get nice, straight square
cuts over at the table saw and other tools as well. So the chop saw I don’t really
need that much capacity, what I do need is to make
sure it is at 90 at all times and finds its setting and holds it. The more adjustments you have on a tool the more likely it is to go out of whack and need calibration. So I have not had to recalibrate
this thing since buying it about a year and 1/2 ago. And I’ve taken it on job sites, I’ve taken it downstairs for
a basement remodel we did, and this thing is just rock solid. It does have limitations, because you don’t have
as much cutting depth, so sometimes we’ll have
to make a two part cut, cut once, flip it, and then cut again. But it’s a small price to pay for the dependability that we have here. Dust collection is not great, it does something, but it’s not perfect. That is one aspect that I really miss about the Festool Kapex. But given the price of this thing it’s probably worth the compromise. Behind me here is my workbench. It’s a split top roubo. We’ve built this project in the Guide and you can get access
to the plans right now if you want to. A fantastic workbench. It’s really a workhorse
and you can pretty much add anything onto it that you want. I’ve got bench crafted hardware on there, both the leg vice and
the tail vice over here. I’ll soon be building
some storage underneath it for chisels, rasps, whatever
I want to have handy. Now behind the workbench is
where all the hand tools are. So I generally consider myself to be something of a hybrid woodworker. I actually wrote a book
called “Hybrid Woodworking” that talks about the methodology that I and a lot of other woodworkers use. That means that I actually use power tools for the grunt work and then I do a lot of the
fine stuff using my hand tools. So my tool collection
kind of reflects that. I don’t have as well-rounded
of a hand tool setup, because I have very
targeted things that I do. So finessing joinery is
really important to me, so I’ve got things like
a nice router plane here, I’ve got some shoulder
planes on this side. I’ve got a basic selection of saws, but most of the time I’m
not cutting my joinery using hand saws. But sometimes I need to
and I’ve got them for that. My basic set of planes here. I’ve got a smoother,
a nice low angle jack, a jointer plane, I
don’t use it very often. I find the jack plane does
most of the jointing operations I need to do. And of course, I’ve got a big jointer, so I don’t use it that often. Block planes are fantastic and this is my favorite little guy. He’s so tiny, but
sometimes you just gotta, when you need a little edge
treatment or something, this little plane is fantastic. So what I did here was put
a T1-11 siding on the wall. This allows me to put a
screw anywhere I need to. All these little tool hangers and stuff, it’s very easy to attach it. And it kind of just gives it more of a woodworking shop look. My past shop in Arizona
was accused of being cold and almost clinical the way it was just the tan
floors and the tan walls. This shop is, in my opinion, anything but. It’s a little warmer,
little more welcoming, and this T1-11 stuff
really helps with that. So now that I’ve shown you some of the most expensive
tools in my shop, let me show you what
I’m doing for security thanks to our friends at SimpliSafe. I like the sound of that. I grew up in kind of a rough
neighborhood in New Jersey and my house was broken
into two or three times when I was a kid and that really left a
lasting impression on me as to securing my home. And I knew one day when I got older and could afford it I would
have a security system. So Nicole and I have had a
number of security systems on our homes over the years, including the ones from the big companies, as well as DIY solutions. And I haven’t ever been really completely happy with everything. The most secure professional
ones cost too much and then a DIY solutions just kind of have a
toy-like quality to them and I don’t really feel like
it’s doing a whole lot for me. So enter SimpliSafe, this is a company I’m really
happy to be working with, because I needed a solution to
help secure not only my home, but my shop. Of all the smart home and
security solutions I’ve used the SimpliSafe system is the
most straightforward to set up. Simply plug in the base station. – [Automated Voice] Welcome to SimpliSafe. – [Instructor] And
begin adding components. There’s no complicated
integration process here, just remove the battery tab, press the button on the
component, and give it a name. – [Automated Voice] Now choose a name. – SimpliSafe has a nice variety of sensors to accommodate any home or shop, including window and door sensors, glass break sensors, motion sensors, and even freeze and water
sensors, just to name a few. The sensors install easily using screws or the included adhesive strips. An incredibly thoughtful feature is the inclusion of tabs that allow you to later
remove the components without damaging the wall or the woodwork. To bump up the security in the shop I added sensors to the door and window, as well as a camera and motion sensors. The camera is crystal clear and provides a nice view of the shop. It makes it easy to identify any jerk that thinks about running
away with my favorite tools. I have a new woodshed that
I’ll show you later on, but I was able to install a door sensor, as well as a smoke alarm in that location. Now the 24/7 professional monitoring gives me a peace of mind
and unlike other solutions, it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. It’s about $.50 a day with no contracts. And the system continues to
work if there’s a loss of power, a loss of Wi-Fi signal, or even if the system is
attacked during an intrusion. Whether you have a standalone shop or one that’s attached to your home, SimpliSafe will protect
your tools and home, so you never have to worry. While my old security system was nice, it was easily foiled by meat
products or squishy toys. All right. Check out simplisafe.com/woodwhisperer to put together your
custom security solution. So let’s talk a little bit about storage. Lots of things to cover here. First of all, as I move
this out of the way, this is just a little Rubbermaid cart, highly recommend them for small parts as you’re working on project. It’s nice to kind of keep
everything organized, but also have it mobile, so you can move it around. So let’s start with lumber storage. In this shop I didn’t have
a whole lot of options. I needed a place to
store some sheet goods, and then, of course, some solid stock. So here we have a high section that’s reserved for at least
four by eight sheet goods. We can’t go much higher than that, but you can see most of the
stuff we have will fit here. Over here I have these brackets. Now these are ones that I purchased, you can see them it’s ClosetMaid brand, but they have another
grade that’s for garages. And I believe it’s at
a higher weight rating, so it can support more weight. Each of those vertical pieces are screwed into the studs in the wall and then the very top
there’s an additional support that’s added that’s screwed
up into that top plate in the wall structure
where it meets the ceiling. You do have to be concerned
here with safety though. You wanna make sure that
anything on that shelf is far enough away from that rail that when the door comes up it is not going to knock a board down. Ask me how I know. This is what happens
when an 8/4 walnut board falls off of that shelf. So I will need to fix this at some point. But this storage issue
is one of the reasons why we built a lumber shed. So this is our new eight by 10 shed. It’s not just a lumber shed, I’ve got lawn mowers and
all kinds of lawn care items and snow shovels and things
that have to be stored in here, but for me primarily it
was intended to be a place to store extra wood. So I didn’t need to have as
much storage in the shop. Now we do live in an HOA area, so we’re kind of restricted
on what we can do, but ultimately this is going to give us a lot of extra space. Inside here I’ve got some floor mats that will allow the floor to breathe just in case there’s any
water penetration in there. It also keeps the wood up off the floor. It’s not directly on the concrete. For the wood storage I
went with vertical storage. There’s no reason you can’t store good quality dried hardwood vertically, especially when it’s on a steep angle there’s hardly any weight on it and it works just fine. So these racks I picked up at Grainger. I think they’re actually intended for storing things like
pipes and pipe stock, but it worked just fine for wood. Keeps us nice and organized. And of course, all of my lawn care stuff is along the other wall. One of the most significant
storage upgrades in my shop was this miter station. It’s not just a miter station, it’s cabinets with banks of
drawers and lots of storage, but it also serves as support for anything that we cut at the miter saw. Now you’ll notice mine
does not have a fence. There was this whole thing that we did when we released this project, it turned into kind of like
a hashtag campaign of sorts about getting rid of your fence. I’m a believer in the fact that you don’t need a
fence on a miter saw. It just gets in the way. So without a fence here I have all this useful space. I don’t have a vertical piece of material that’s in my way, it works great and I haven’t had any
issues with it at all. So let’s take a look at the
storage we’ve included here. So inside the doors I’ve got
a series of pullout shelves. I like the idea of a shallow shelf, because it makes it easy
to get to these tools. And these are on full extension, might even be over-extension slides, making it very easy to get to the back. But I have doors on here
to keep the dust out. Other thing you’ll notice is
I don’t have any toolboxes. When you’re a static woodworker in the sense that you
don’t go on job sites, toolboxes make no sense at all. They just take up a ton of space. So all my tools are
here, easily accessible, and I don’t have to worry
about taking up extra space with big blow mold plastic boxes. (dog panting) On my right side I’ve
got a bank of 10 drawers and sometimes you just need
full-on drawer storage. Duggee, you’re not helping. So in each one of these
I’ve kind of had it sort of dedicated to a
certain type of tool, which is a nice luxury if you
have the storage space for it. Now even though my router table
is all the way over there, I really needed more storage for bits. So I found these foam inserts
that you can cut to size and put inside drawers that
have holes for 1/2 inch bits and 1/4 inch bits and
even metric, I guess, what is it, eight millimeter? These work so good and they’re
not really expensive at all, highly recommend them. And look how nice and
organized you could be. Now something that’s been
an old standby of storage in any shop for years has been pegboard. And it’s fairly inexpensive,
easy to make little frames, but the pegboard material
itself can kind of wear out. So it’s been interesting
to see how companies have come around recently
that improved pegboard. So this is some Wall Control pegboard. They’ve got a very unique system of how everything slots
in and it’s very secure, but what I love about their system is they have lots of add-ons and shelves, specifically for things like paint cans, screwdrivers, stuff like that. So really interesting system. So that’s Wall Control. Let me show you another one. And this one is System X Storage. This is basically the
Cadillac of pegboard. It’s stainless steel, the weight capacity on
this stuff is insane, and it’s kind of workshop bling in a way. But you can see I’m using
it to hold my saw blades, some hammers, things like that. But if you’ve got the budget
this is a really cool system. So, as you can see, I’ve
got a pretty good collection of clamps and storing
those is always an issue. This isn’t something
that’s really changed much for me over time. I’ve had Jet clamps and
basically the same amount and variety for a long time. I’ve got a nice little clamp rack. We have an article on how
to make that on the website. Down here I’ve made use of
some of Rockler’s racks. They actually make these really nice right angle slotted racks that are just very quick and easy and I needed a way to hang these and that really fit the bill nicely. Now over here I’ve got my F-style clamps and all kinds of doodads,
doohickeys, dinglehoppers. And I’ve got another wall hanging rack. This one’s very simple,
just these vertical pieces with notches that hold pipes in place. And then everything
just hangs on the pipes. It’s actually pretty versatile. Got a nice little shelf
up here for squaring aids, things for cabinets that
help keep the cabinets nice and square while
you’re either applying glue or applying clamping pressure. And then again I’ve got another
one of those Rockler racks. I think if you’re looking
for a quick solution and you don’t feel like building one I think they work really great. Low profile and you can fit
a lot of different clamps. And, of course, even though I have a lot of nice cabinet clamps
and parallel clamps, I find that the pipe clamps are great when you need really long clamps and you don’t wanna spend
a lot of money on them. So I like to have those around as well. This is one of my favorite
storage units in the shop, primarily because what used to be here was really non-functional,
big open storage with big towers here that just
didn’t really work for me. Now it’s become a real center of activity. I’ve got a TV over here if
we wanna watch some football or Seinfeld shows, I’ve got my drill bit storage, and of course, all the drill accessories, and essentially a glue station over here where I keep all my epoxy,
my Titebond glues, and tapes. Now in the cabinets themselves I have a lot of different
things stored here. This side is kind of
like the other storage in the miter station
with the pull-out trays for sandpaper, we’ve got some
measuring tools over here. And actually a lot of
this, I should mention, these are projects on our free site. So we did this one on the free site, the drill storage cabinet
is on the free site, and the charging station as well. So let’s take a look in these drawers, ’cause I got some pretty
cool organization there. In the left bank of
drawers here at the bottom I’ve got my domino storage. It’s pretty much every size that I might need for
the Domino 500 or 700, each his own little compartment, and my beautiful little labels here courtesy of my label baby junior. And this grid work is
really just 1/2 inch MDF hot glued together. Next up I’ve just got
various types of hardware and threaded inserts and
figure-eight fasteners, things like that. I find these little red
bins to be really handy, because I could find the hardware I need, take these out, take it to the workbench, and then put everything back. Same thing with my screws. I pretty much just keep them in bins, nicely labeled for the most
common sizes and lengths. Now this is another project
we did on the website, how to increase your
drawer storage essentially. It’s about double the capacity here. By putting these little trays, so you have a bunch of room down here. I’ve got all my French
curves, drawing implements, and then pencils and apparently
a lifetime supply of lead. Now I showed you some
of my hand tools before, but what I didn’t show
you was all the details for how all these things
are attached to the wall with these custom little holders and they’re really not that sophisticated. Now most of these are really just spur of the moment
creations using scrap wood just to get something on the wall and make it nice and handy. These chisels here are some
of my favorite chisels, they’re quite expensive, so I did treat these a little nicer. This is just a layup of a
couple pieces of plywood with a gap in the middle and spacers to prevent the
chisels from hitting each other and just to keep them nice and vertical. Works really well. It’s a big improvement compared
to my previous chisel rack, which was just an open slot that allows the pieces to
kind of knock back and forth and it also has all of the
blades accessible down here, which is a bit of a hazard, especially now with kids in the shop. Now each plane kind of has its own shelf as far as the large planes go. I’ve got a little ramp here
for various block planes, which is kind of cool. And a neat feature is on
the shelves themselves there is a little gap and this way I can keep my blade exposed in a functional position
when I put it on the shelf and I don’t have to worry about the blade constantly
sitting on wood. Honestly I’m not too worried
about that dulling the blade, but it is something that
people do think about. My router plane just sits
in this little pocket here, nice and custom fit. And I’ve got a bunch of card scrapers, they’re just on their own little shelf. My hand saws have these
little custom cutouts to match the inner shape of the handle, holds them there very nicely. If you wanna secure them even further you just make ’em thicker and then have an extra
piece of material here that can kind of swing out of the way. And a lot of my Woodpecker stuff and some fancy squares here, they’re on these custom little holders. And I really enjoy the challenge of coming up with solutions for holding these things on the wall. Inexpensive scrap wood, but once you figure out how to hold them and just looking at the shape, what would allow it to sit nice and comfortably and securely on the wall, it’s a lot of fun to design these things. And of course, sometimes
you just can’t beat a screw. Whoa. Behind the lathe I’ve got a bunch of lathe tools on the wall. I’ve got some easy wood tools here, some more traditional turning tools, but just a very simple rack that I built. I’ve got some Forstner holes
here made with a Forstner bit and then some just little teeth. It’s all just plywood scraps and I just kind of lined them up, so it’s a two part rack with a top support and the lower support. Works pretty well. Now all of my finishes are
stored in a metal cabinet. It’s not really like a fireproof cabinet or a flammables cabinet, but I figure if I’m gonna put finishes and flammable materials in something I’d rather it be in metal than wood. So this works pretty nice. It’s just a Uline cabinet. And it’s pretty well stuffed. I’ve got dyes, wood fillers. Most of what I’m using these days is a little bit safer anyway, I’m using a lot of low
and no VOC finishes, but I do have some solvents
in here in the bottom. But this is, it’s pretty well packed, but it’s about all I
need for finish storage. The two things that can
be pretty tricky to store, tracks for a track saw,
and ladders, right? So you always need a ladder
in your shop at some point. So we have the tracks
on very simple racks. There’s a hole at the end of the track, we just have those on a dowel and that dowel goes into a piece of wood that’s screwed into the wall. So all the tracks, all of the guides, the clamping tool guides are here. And then the ladder itself is just on a, it’s like a ladder hook thing
that I bought from Home Depot. That guy goes into a stud and the ladder just gets put up there. It’s kind of a pain in the butt, but at least it’s out of the way. Now let’s talk a little bit about tech. It’s one of my favorite topics and even in a wood shop
I have lots of tech that helps me get the job done here. I used to have a dedicated shop computer. These days anything I
need computer access for I’m either gonna use my phone,
iPad, or I’ve got a laptop. And this is what I use for live streaming, works really well. Internet, really important and the shop is kind of a little
bit removed from the house, so the Wi-Fi doesn’t
quite make it out here. So I do have a mesh network system. There is a hard line of Cat 6 I believe that came all the way to the shop, that goes into another router and that gives us plenty of
Wi-Fi throughout the shop. It also gives me direct access, because I do a lot of live streaming. We do Friday live, we do Guide meetings, and I wanna make sure that that has no
interruptions if possible, so I do a direct connection for that. Music is very important to us and we have a couple
of in-ceiling speakers, I have a Sonos system
that powers those speakers and connects to the Sonos that we have in the rest of the house, which is fantastic. We also have a big giant
subwoofer down in the corner here, because I’m all about that base. Now over here, of course,
we gotta power things and charge a lot of batteries, so I’ve got a nice power strip. I have a outlet in the wall, which has USB ports in it, that makes it easy to charge our phones. And on the TV I’ve got a Fire TV, we have lots of Fire TVs in this house, so it allows me to get
broadcast television and anything I have through apps. I could watch woodworking shows and barbecue shows and again, Seinfeld. Another upgrade I was
able to do this past year was my garage door opener. The old one actually failed, broke on me, so I went with this
Chamberlain Wi-Fi model, which is fantastic, because now I have complete app control and it integrates
nicely, it’s super quiet. Listen to this. (machine whirring) So the belt they use on that it’s no longer the loud
sort of opening process. We’ve had this happen
while we did a live show and you could barely
hear it on the live show. It works really nicely. Another thing we added
soon after we moved in was a set of heaters. They’re electric heaters, which is really expensive to run, but unfortunately, I
wasn’t able to do gas, and this made the most sense. I was able to hook up a Wi-Fi thermostat, which again, gives me
control from my phone, makes it easy for me to
control the temperature even when I’m not here or set routines and things like that to turn it on when I need it to go on. Now another thing I get
a lot of questions about is stuff related to the production side, the content production side of what we do. So we run two Canon 80d camera, DSLR cameras, they work really well. I have a Sony lavaliere mic that connects to one of those cameras. This one is just the room mic. And I have lights, so we have LED lights throughout the shop, so I don’t have tripods
everywhere that I’m tripping over. And what I did was actually repurposed some of the garage door hardware, the brackets that hung from the ceiling, repurposed those to hold lights. And actually they just happened to be in just the right spot, so it worked out pretty well. Now while it’s not a
technical item per se, it is something that allows us to do what we do in this shop, and that’s the acoustic
treatments on the ceiling. There’s a lot of vibrations
in a space like this, so having foam and a
couple different styles of insulated material on the ceiling actually helps cut down on echos and it makes it a lot more
pleasant of an environment to have a conversation and
to film a woodworking show. Now the final thing I wanna
cover with the shop tour is safety. Safety is a very important thing to me, especially now with someone in the shop with me at all times. We’re in here a lot. We work minimally eight,
maybe sometimes 10 hour days, and I even work on the weekends sometimes, so that’s a lot of time
to be exposed to dust, fumes, flying debris
potentially on spinning tools, so safety is huge. Now for me it all starts right here with good dust collection. This is an Oneida Dust Gorilla and it is, of course,
piped through the shop to all of the major tools, because the best dust collection is the dust collection
that happens at the source. If you collect the dust
before it has a chance to get in the air you’re
way ahead of the game. And this filter stack works really well, we blow it out periodically. And we just collect all the
dust in the bin at the bottom. But definitely a nice powerful unit that is more than adequate
for all the tools that I have. A common question I get
is how does this compare to the Clear Vue Cyclone that I ran for years back in Arizona? And the most fair answer I can give to it is they are both adequate dust collectors. I don’t have measuring tools or a way to actually give you numbers with something like this, but all I can tell you is the Clear Vue worked perfectly fine, collected the dust adequately, as does the Oneida unit. The big difference between them is this one has metal construction, a few other details, like a solid plastic single
piece housing at the top, versus the Clear Vue, which is a little more plastic and MDF. That said, I believe Clear
Vue now has a metal unit that’s worth your consideration. Both are great dust collectors. Now related to the dust collection, and we actually did a video
about this not too long ago, we have automated blast gates from iVac. So everything that’s
connected to a dust collector has a blast gate that
once the tool is turned on the blast gate opens and
the dust collector turns on. These things have worked great, I can’t say they’ve been flawless, we’ve had a few that have malfunctioned and had to be replaced and I believe there was a firmware upgrade that made them work perfectly. And so far, so good with the replacements, they’ve been fine. But since I did the initial
video I have had a few problems, but they were very quick to fix those. I really like to be
comfortable in my shop. I’ve got rubber flooring and I’ve had this since the Arizona shop. This stuff is really durable, it’s made from recycled tires. And when you spend all day in here it’s nice to be able to walk on this and not walk on concrete. So I just wear regular
sneakers these days. I don’t do anything special with footwear, because this gives you just enough cushion that it absorbs all the shock and doesn’t wind up
translating to sore feet, sore heels, or even a sore
back after a long workday. Oh god, getting old. Now this is a bit of a three-in-one here. I’ve got three different safety items that I highly recommend. The first is an air quality meter. This is something that
detects how many small and large particles are
circulating in the air. And this is what lets me
know if the shop air quality is good enough for me to
take off my respirator. Just the good peace of mind. This, of course, is a fire extinguisher. I recommend having
multiple fire extinguishers throughout the shop. Not all in the same location,
different sides of the shop, ’cause you never know if a fire breaks out you gotta be near one of these things. So these are absolutely essential. And down here I’ve got a first aid kit. Inside there I just got a bunch of stuff. Band-Aids, antiseptic, tweezers, the sticky tape, ACE bandages, there’s even a tourniquet
in there, god forbid. Now while we try to collect as much dust at the source as possible, some of it still gets in the air, it’s just the way a wood shop works. So I have some of these
air cleaners in there. This is the Powermatic PM1250. This thing is insane, it’s so nice. It’s got an electrostatic filter inside, so instead of buying those pleated filters and replacing them on a monthly basis you have this electrostatic filter and all you need to do
is vacuum off the dust. And I can’t remember the exact number, it’s got like 30,000 hours of life to it. It’s a fantastic product. Definitely not the
cheapest thing out there, but I think it’s a good investment in your shop safety and health. I’ve had a number of shop
setups throughout the years and one thing that holds true is that everything always changes. The shop is a constant evolution. Whether it’s bringing in new tools, learning new techniques, or just personal preferences that change, you’re gonna move things around. So if you’re starting up a new shop and you’re kind of stressing
about the setup, don’t. It’s something that will come with time. Do the best you can, get the
setup so that it’s functional, and then improve it over time. And as long as I’ve been doing this even this year I’ve had to
second guess some things, because I added a new variable with another person in the shop. And sometimes things
that made sense before they don’t make sense anymore, so we have to make changes. Just wanna thank everybody
for watching this and thank everyone for
watching throughout the years. You’ve always been a great support of our endeavors here and
we really appreciate it. And of course, thanks to SimpliSafe for being one of the special
sponsors of this show and helping secure my shop and my house. Thanks for watching,
we’ll catch you next time. (upbeat music)